Cheese Platter at Beppe e i Suoi Formaggi
Italiano: Il Cibo
English: The Food
As my final four months of studying abroad has come to a close, I figured what better way to start wrapping up my blog, but with a post dedicated to food? As all of my readers (should) know by now, I'm a huge foodie. I'm utterly obsessed, and take way too many photos for my (and maybe your) own good. For me, eating good food is very important. I value knowing what's going into my body, and most importantly I value eating locally, seasonally, and extremely well.
Yesterday, I was listening to a few girls joke about the number of souvenirs and items they have purchased for themselves over the course of their stay in Europe. I joked, that I haven't bought a single "souvenir," for myself, unless you count food as being a souvenir and in that case than I've bought hundreds of good meals.
And it's true. All I do is spend my money on food, aside from travel and a few essentials here and there (a coat for Ireland was necessary). For me, food tells me so much about the culture of a place. It's revealing and interesting. Especially after my experience of interning for Katie Parla, I can easily say my obsession has grown into a passion and a sincere interest for exploring the gastronomic scene everywhere I go. For now, food is just one of my main interests, but I will not deny the fact that I may be interested in making a career based around it.
Italiano: Antipasti
English: Appetizers
Every item antipasti posses, I want to eat. Large spreads of delicious cured meats, and various cheeses are hands down, some of my favorite things to eat. It's the simply quality of the products that makes me go, "Wow." Italian cuisine as a whole is like this. It's all about the food you use. And usually, it's the simplest forms of food that really are outstanding.
Some of my favorite cheese experiences were at Beppe e i Suoi Formaggi in the Jewish Ghetto, when Mac and I indulged in the most magnificent cheese platter (First photo of this post). The array of cheeses provided during my second school excursion at La Porta dei Parchi Cheese Farm. And lastly, one of my favorite platters of meat and cheese was during my Mom's first night at Cul de Sac.
Italiano: Antipasti Fritti
English: Fried Appetizers
I never expected Italy to be known for fried foods. I suppose this is the Americanized vision of Italian cuisine I possesed prior to coming here. For all of those future Italy adventurers, you must, must, must, order fritti. Fried appetizers are a great way to start your meal. Yes, because they are fried, but also they all posses such intriquite flavors, that they'll surprise you by how good they are.
The cooking class my Mom and I took, allowed us how to make Italy's infamous fried pumpkin blossoms (fior di zucca). We caught the tail end of the season for these delicious flowers, stuffed with mozarella, prosciutto and eggplant (not to mention the delicious tomato-walnut pesto for dipping), are easily some of the most delicious things I ate during this whole trip. When traveling in the warmer months, it's a requirement to order them.
The fried gnocchi in cacio e pepe sauce, and polpette di bollito (breaded shredded veal) at Cesare al Casaletto are to die for. Not only is this Trattoria the epitomy of classic Romano, but they have some of the best fried starters (second and third photograph). The meatballs are succulunt, with a nicely breaded and fried outer shell, and the fried gnocchi (which you must order on Thursdays, because that's when all restaurants make fresh batches of gnocchi) will be gone before you know it, especially since it's swimming in the cheesiest cacio e pepe sauce.
Lastly, suppli! These are delicious fried rice balls loaded with flavor. You usually order these are pizza places and fornos, but you can also get them as starters in a few restaurants. These are great energy boosters, and easy to pick up and eat on the go, as well. My favorite was the Genovese, at 00100 in Testaccio. Flavored meat stew rice, with onion, salt, pepper and lots of parmesan and of course fried, just makes you wish you had seven stomachs.
Italiano: Primi
English: First Course
The primi, or first course, usually proceeds the many appetizer plates, that are shared amongst your fellow dinners. Usually, first courses tend to be pasta. You can't escape pasta once you're in Italy. In general, Pasta really is not one of my favorite dishes. I think I ate it too much as a little kid, that it's significantly lost it's appeal as I've gotten older. However, when in Italy, you have to eat pasta, because it's the real stuff (I will mention that I only eat pasta when I go out, and I never ever cook it at home, this way I can enjoy it). Pasta has to be unique for me though, and every time I know I am going to be eating pasta, I order a different kind (the only pasta I've repeated is alla carbonara because it's Mac's favorite!). Two of the absolute best pasta dishes I've had this past week though, and they were phenomenal.
Pasta alla Carbonara, pecorino romano, pancetta or guanciale, and egg mixture, was another outstanding hit from Cesare al Casaletto (traditional Roman Trattoria's know their food). Carbonara is delicious, but at times can be way too creamy for my standards, seeing as I usually prefer lighter sauces. However, it's the meat that really sways me with certain dishes, and the guanciale (pork cheek), was juicy, salty, and all things we want in meat.
Pasta all'amatriciana, is the closest pasta dish you will have that has any form of a "kick," a.k.a. spice to it. It's a basic sauce, with tomato, guanciale and pecorino romano cheese, and definitely pepper (even though most recipes don't highlight this as a main ingredient). The sauce is light, even with pork, and simply pure (again, the fewer the ingredients the better).
The third pasta photographed is a mix fish pasta, from the unbelievable restaurant here in Roma called Metamorfosi. This restaurant is extremely modern for Roman standards. They take traditional cuisine and completely flip it with modern flair. Mac and I ate there this past Monday as our "study break," and indulged in one of the best meals of this whole trip. Least to say, this pasta was part of the tasting menu. It was cooked in an oyster sauce, and covered with fish flakes and spices. It was like nothing I've ever had before.
Lastly, this delicious Tagliolini, made in French butter and strewn with white truffle shavings from Roscioli. This past weekend, Hande and Katie (Mac's and my boss), provided us with one of the best foodie experiences by taking us to the infamous Roscioli. I was blown away by this pasta. It's so simple, yet the truffles are sublime. The minute Katie told me it was a seasonal dish, I was sold.
Italiano: La Pizza
English: The Pizza
Just like pasta, you can't come to Italy without indluging in Pizza! I'm pretty picky when it comes to pizza, yet another food I ate too much of as a child. However, unlike Americanized pizza that possess really thick dough, with way too much grease, cheese, and sauce, Italian pizza is much lighter and more creative when it comes to some of their toppings.
The caprese pizza by the slice from Antico Forno Roscioli (which is the smaller establishment down the street from their restaurant, where I ate delicious truffle pasta), is out of this world. All of their baked goods are unbelievable, their bread is something that should be sought out for in Rome. This was one of the first places I went to upon coming to Rome. All of their pizza is delicious, especially right out of the oven. I think I enjoyed the Caprese the most because it's an even mixture of eating something lighter, whilst still on delicious bread.
Pizzarium! My mom and I ate here after our trip to the Vatican. Let me tell you, Katie Parla raves about this place, for good reason. They have some of the most unique toppings and bread around. The owner, Gabriele Bonci is well known for his bread, and owns several other restaurants and bakeries around Rome.
The Carbonara pizza from Tonda was easily the most unique, and slightly ridiculous, thing I've ever eaten. Mac ordered this pizza this past weekend at Tonda. It was one of the specials, and of course we couldn't resist trying it. We shared two pizzas, and swapped each other for a few bites here and there. I finished mine, but this pizza overcame her. It was good, but super heavy.
The trapizzini from 00100 are technically not "pizza," but they are made at a pizza by the slice place, and somewhat fit into this category. Picture fluffy pizza bianca pocket filled with delicious meaty tomato sauce fillings. They toast the bread and fill it up with all things delicious, ranging from tripe, to tongue, meatballs, or this African stew filling. As Katie instructed, order the one with the most guts as possible (I'm not kidding).
Italiano: Secondo
English: Second Course
The second course in Italy is almost always a meat dish, or a super heavy pasta or fish. I don't order meat as often as I would like to, just because it tends to be just as expensive as a primi or appetizer, if not more, and not quite as satisfying. However, it's always a great addition to the meal.
The polpette, my mom and I made at our cooking class, are hands down the juciest and most tender meatballs I've had. I actually made them for my housemates several weeks ago, and was extremely pleased with how they turned out. The key is to cook them in the sauce, and soak your bread in milk for a bit before mixing all of the ingredients together (some pecorino romano also helps too!).
Oxtail from Flavio, was one of the first things I ate in Rome. My very first night actually. Mac and her mom, Deb, were so kind and took me out to dinner here where we shared countless plates, Oxtail being one of them. It was tender, and litterally falls right off the bone. Easily one of my favorite meat dishes I've eaten.
Metamorfosi makes this list again. The beef was out of this world. Extremely tender, and rare. Mac and I agreed the rarity of it would not fly in the States, but we happily ate it. The spice rub on this was to die for. I wish I could take a jar home to the states.
Italiano: Il Dolce
English: Dessert
At the end of the meal, just like most cultures, Italians enjoy a nice little dessert. Desserts in Italy are small, and not like any sort of ginormous, syrupy, artificial flavored plate you would order in the U.S. Least to say, I wasn't really impressed with sweet treats in Italy. As an avid baker, I appreciated all of the bread, but none of their cookies or cakes seemed to impress me. Italian pastries tend to be very dry and hard, and not that interesting to eat.
However, the one dessert that (some) Italians know how to make is Gelato. I think I've explained my reason for not being super keen on eating gelato many times (working at an artisanal shop in my home-town for the past three years, has made me quite the snob), but least to say I still gave the recommended shops a go, and definitely was not disappointed.
V-ice was a small, overtly white shop near our school (it kind of creeped me out how sterile looking it is), and although the appearance was a bit more modern than other places in Italy, they definitely served some of the best basic and fresh flavors. They make all of their gelato from scratch, using delicious ingredients like "oranges from Amalfi," as photographed above. Mac's go to was their orange and chocolate. I always switched it up. This shop was definitely the most convenient and my favorite if I was craving something classic.
Of course, the best gelato I had in Italy came from the Il Gelato, and the amazing workshop conduced by Claudio Torce, which I discussed on my blog. There is a reason why he is known as the master, because he truly understands how to make delicious product. He cares about his ingredients, and how they are handled, and it definitely shows. I tried so many flavors that day. The best was the pistachio, but I also snagged a cone for myself with his black sesame, and a delicious alcoholic gelato that, unfortunately, I can't remember the name of, but it definitely has a similar taste to amaretto.
One dessert that truly stood out at a restaurant was at Metamorfosi (can you tell, this meal was unbelievable?). It was called: Torrefazione 2.0. It was a chocolate ball filled with delicious cream, covered in toasted hazelnuts, and had warm espresson poured over the top, which melted the chocolate. Watching our server prep the dessert was a production in itself. The medley of flavors was lovely. Metamorfosi truly has a knack for deconstructing the normal desserts, and bringing them all back together.
Italiano: Fichi
English: Figs
I fell in love with figs when I was in Italy. Every opportunity I had, I ate them. They were (and are) one of my favorite foods I ate in Italy. I bought bag-fulls of dried figs to eat in my apartment. I always sampled, and ordered, gelato with any form of fig in it. The jam lady at the farmer's market would always laugh because I would taste the fig jam first, before trying her new ones (she ended up giving me a free one, after doing this for countless Sundays in a row...). Anything with fig in the description was most likely ordered at a restaurant. Least to say, figs deserve their own category because of my obsession with them.
The best black figs I ate, were definitely during my school's second excursion to the cheese farm (I linked my post up above). The owner explained that they grow all of their produce on their land. The number of fig trees enabled him to offer all thirty students as many as we wanted. They had the most beautiful color (the photo above has no edits), and tasted divine. I ate four, I think in one sitting. We all couldn't get enough of them!
The two dishes photographed above, were both from La Zucca, where my Mom and I dined twice at in Venice. The first night we were there we ordered this delicious fig appetizer. These white figs were cooked stuffed with a delicious goat cheese. Warmed figs filled with creamy cheese, and lightly seasoned is simply perfection. We also ordered fig desserts during both of our visits to La Zucca. I loved both, but I preferred the Torte (cake), photographed above. Fig jam was swirled generously throughout the dough, the buttery crust was flaky, and the sliced figs on the side were obviously a nice touch.
I brought a few fig-food items back to the states. I almost forgot to declare the bags of dried fruit in my bag when I was being screened during customs. Luckily the guy was nice, and just laughed at the number of food items I brought back from Italy. When really, I think he was laughing because of how much I struggled to lug my overweight luggage onto their carrousel (you would think they would make this process easier...especially when there are people my size trying to throw my suit case that weighs half as much as I do, onto an angled dolly...).
Italiano: Cibi Unici
English: Unique Foods
I ate such an array of dishes and foods throughout my stay in Italy. The three most interesting, or unique dishes I had were found in Sicily, Venice and Roma (although this dish is technically Sicilian).
Pane Ca' Meusa, is a delicious sandwich filled with marinated spleen. I raved about Sicily, and all of the great street food this country possesses. This was hands down the best "sandwich," I ate in all of Europe. As we were eating it, I had to tell Mac to not think about it, because she started to a freak out a little. I never shy away from food. The best advice I can give anyone while traveling, is to always try and eat locally, and be adventurous (things like spleen sandwiches will surprise you!).
The pumpkin flan from La Zucca. Wow. I've never eaten anything like this, and I doubt I ever will until I go back to Venice. It's amazing how much pumpkin flavor, and spices were packed into such a small portion. Covered with cheese, nuts and oil, made this dish surprisingly savory, and us back for a second time.
Lastly, Caponata! This dish is technically Sicilian, but I ate it at a wine bar in Rome called Al Vino Al Vino, in Monti. It's a sweet and sour eggplant dish, that technically has Arab origin, but made in Sicily. Eat it on it's own, or on slices of fresh bread, with a bottle of Etna Rossa, and the ultimate food and drink pairing has been made.
Italiano: Il Vino e La Birra
English: Wine and Beer
There is no doubt that I drank well in Italy. The number of fantastic tastings I experienced at Vino Roma, were unbelievable. I have both Hande, and Mac, to thank for the majority of great wine I drank. As I have mentioned before, and will reiterate, one of the most valuable things I learned about drinking culture in Italy, is that they do not drink to get drunk. Rather, they drink as a part of their food culture. Italian wine is meant to be drunk with food, and not on its own. That's why it was always pertinent to remember at the tastings I went to, that many of us tasting may not enjoy the wine on it's own, but the minute Hande would start describing what food pairings that would go well with the wine (a Northern crisp white with fried appetizers for example), it all comes together.
Throughout my stay in Italy, my palate has definitely grown for wine. Coming into it, I had very little knowledge of anything other than Napa Chardonnay (never try to give an Italian this...they will spit it out), and even that was limited. Now, I realized I'm a bigger fan of red wine, especially with food. Two of the best reds are photographed above. The 1997 Sassella, was a great treat, thanks to Hande and Katie at our unbelievable Roscioli experience (I felt completely spoiled drinking a 15 year old wine). The second red, was at Vino Roma, and it was a delicious Sardinian wine. It was the most surprisingly of the bunch. Some other favorites not photographed from the red family, are hands down Etna Ross (another reason why everyone should go to Sicily), and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (great with Chocolate!).
I also drank a lot of great beer. The Italian craft beer scene is definitely up and coming, and many producers are actually thriving. Although beer culture is still young in Italy, it definitely deserves recognition. All the products from Birra del Borgo, were big hits with Mac and I. Katie also organized a beer tasting for us, which was extremely informative, and definitely opened my eyes, and interest, into exploring more craft beers, and wanting to learn about beer production.
Overall, my study abroad experience was heavily food-related. But, I truly believe food reveals so much about a country's culture and customs. Food fascinates me. It's not solely because I strive to eat well, but I genuinely want to explore my personal palate. After these past four months, I've eaten some of the best cuisines I probably will ever eat in my lifetime. I am not sure if I will pursue a career that is food or drink related, but I definitely know I'll be keeping it as an option for my list of future things I want to try out.
I may be back in the States, but expect at least one more post to properly wrap up my thoughts on studying abroad!
